Fortepiano vs. pianoforte

In The New York Times, Bernard Holland reviews Robert Levin, playing an early 19th-century Graff fortepiano, and Claude Frank, playing a modern Steinway, in Schubert's Sonata in B flat major:

http://www.nytimes.com/2008/01/12/arts/music/12morg.html?ref=music

You can try this at home: Malcolm Bilson on fortepiano (Hungaroton 31590), Stephen Hough on modern piano (Hyperion 67027).